Tuesday, April 5, 2016

Exotic Ataulfo Mangoes

Tommy Atkins and Ataulfo Mangoes
There are hundreds of mango varieties but only about 4 or 5 varieties are common in our local marketplace. My hands down favorite is the 'Ataulfo Mango'. Primarily grown in Mexico with peak season being mid-March to early June. Usually smaller than most varieties and sometimes more expensive but the only mango that consistently impresses me with their texture and flavor.

Ataulfos are small with an oval, flattened shape and are fully ripe when the skin turns a deep golden color with small wrinkles.
Note size of seed @ bottom; Tommy Atkins left ~ Ataulfo right

 
The flesh is vibrant yellow and has a creamy, sweet flavor. They have a very small seed so there is a high flesh to seed ratio. The flesh is smooth and firm with no fibers which makes them my first choice. Besides the color and wrinkles, another test of ripeness of the Ataulfo is that it will give slightly to a gentle squeeze. Use your experience with peaches and avocados which also become softer as they ripen. 
NOTE: the red color on some mango varieties is not an indicator of ripeness. Always judge by feel.

For the past few weeks, Thrifty Foods has featured Ataulfo Mangoes on sale at a great price. I took the opportunity to stock up, purchasing different degrees of ripeness. Unripe mangoes should be stored at room temperature. This way they will continue to ripen becoming softer and sweeter over several days. To speed up ripening, place in a paper bag at room temperature. Purchasing a few ripe, ready to eat and some still green, extends your eating enjoyment.
Ataulfo Mangoes at different degrees of ripeness
Once ripe, move to the fridge (if they last that long!) to slow down the ripening process. Whole, ripe mangoes can be stored in the fridge for up to 5 days. They can be peeled, cubed and placed in an airtight container in the fridge for several days or frozen for up to 6 months.

Mangoes have one long, flat seed in the center of the fruit. Once you learn how to work around the seed the rest is easy. Always wash mangoes before cutting. Stand the mango, stem end down on a cutting board and hold. Place your knife about 1/4" from the widest center line and cut down. Flip the mango and repeat for the other side. The resulting ovals of flesh are called 'cheeks' and what is left in the middle is mostly the mango seed. 

To slice; cut parallel slices into the mango flesh being careful not to cut through the skin. Then 'scoop' the sliced flesh out of the skin with a large spoon. Slices can be cut thick or thin as desired.

To dice; cut parallel slices into the mango flesh being careful not to cut through the skin, as for slicing. Turn the mango cheek 1/4 rotation and cut another set of parallel slices to make a checkerboard pattern. 

Now you have two choices; either 'scoop' the diced flesh out of the skin with a large spoon or turn the scored mango cheek 'inside out' by pushing the skin up from underneath and scrape the chunks off the skin with a knife or spoon.

Chef's Tip: if your recipe calls for diced mango, make your parallel slices closer together. The result is small pieces of diced mango and no need to further cut up on your board.

There is a gadget available called a Mango Slicer. The instructions read, '...simply place mango in the holder and press cutter to remove the pit.' Like many other kitchen gadgets, I have never tried these... I am more comfortable with the control of a knife and cutting board. It is a matter of comfort and preference.

Mangoes are a healthy snack for any time of day. Add frozen, diced mango to your morning smoothie or stir fresh mango cubes into plain yogurt with a drizzle of honey. Make ice pops by freezing mango puree in ice cube trays with a popsicle stick. Toss chunks into a fruit salad or add to a green salad. Elevate desserts, use fresh slices to decorate and garnish exotic 'Coconut Panna Cotta', check out my May 2015 recipe and post  'Simple, Sexy Panna Cotta'.

These methods can be used for all varieties of mangoes. Although in my opinion, the Ataulfo Mango is far superior in texture and flavor to other varieties I have tried. Therefore the Ataulfo wins as my hands down favorite!

Till next time... Bon Appétit! 

Photos and demo by Sally Rae   

Monday, March 28, 2016

Tiny Eggs ...from Denman!

Bantam Hen eggs on left ~ Regular hen eggs on right
Years back, after writing a food column for the Flagstone on 'Quail Eggs', I had a conversation with a Denmanite at the Saturday Market. She asked, "Why don't you create recipes using local eggs from the Island?" 
A fair enough question. My answer, 'I love to use adorable miniature food when I can find it... quail eggs being one of my favorites!" I continued with my quail egg obsession and wrote a Blog Post on the topic again in November of 2014. 

I support shopping the local farmers and growers, so that conversation stuck in the back of my mind. I love 'Pickled Eggs' in any size but pickled quail eggs in particular are a great conversation piece! I digress... back to local eggs. 
When we moved to Denman Island in 1990, I sold fresh, free range, brown shell eggs supplied by my flock of 30 hens and a handsome rooster named Rory. I loved the hens, besides providing the most incredible eggs, they were a constant source of entertainment. I am considering a smaller flock these days and looking into the beautiful, small eggs from Bantam hens.
Pickled Bantam Eggs ~ 22 per quart!
Bantam Hens require a considerably smaller coupe or chicken tractor compared to the space required for regular sized laying hens. Also, they lay adorable, small eggs ...that can be found on Denman!! This quart was made using the 'Pickled Eggs' recipe on page 226 of my cookbook, 'For the Love of Food'. This is a great way to use up any hard boiled, decorated eggs (of any size) leftover from Easter. Just peel the eggs and pack into a sterilized quart sealer with sliced onion and the brine.
To prepare the Bantam eggs... cook to hard boiled, 7-8 minutes, run under cold water, peel, cool and brine. Pack sliced onions and Bantam eggs 20-22 per jar!! 

Till next time... Bon Appétit!


Photos by Sally Rae

Monday, March 21, 2016

Enchilada Strata

'Strata' is a family of layered casserole dishes in American cuisine. The most common variant is a brunch dish, similar to a quiche or a frittata. Made from a mixture of mainly bread, eggs and cheese, it may also contain meat or vegetables. The usual preparation requires the bread to be layered with a filling in order to create layers (strata). 
Pour egg mixture over, cover and refrigerate overnight
Some recipes merely require the ingredients be mixed together like a savory bread pudding. There can be numerous options used for the bread portion, including; croissants, English muffins, brioche, tortilla wraps etc. A beaten egg mixture is then poured over the ingredients.
It makes breakfast or brunch less hectic because all the prep work is done the night before. The dish requires a rest anywhere between one hour and overnight before it is baked, making it an ideal solution to feeding a crowd. It is served warm.


MEDITERRANEAN SAUSAGE ENCHILADAS              Yield: 8 servings
These flavorful, make-ahead, sausage enchiladas can be served for breakfast or brunch. If you have leftovers, reheat them in the microwave for a quick lunch. 

3 Tbsp. olive oil, divided
Sprinkle with remaining cheese; let stand 5 minutes
1 medium onion, ½” dice
1 clove garlic, minced
1-2 small zucchini, ½” dice (about 1 cup)
1 lb. mild Italian sausage meat
6 sun-dried tomato slices, small diced 
¼ cup sliced black olives
8  (8-inch) whole wheat flour tortillas
2 cups grated cheddar cheese

4 eggs

2 cups milk
1 Tbsp. unbleached all-purpose flour
½ tsp. Worcestershire sauce
¼ tsp. Tabasco sauce
Snipped fresh chives for garnish
Salsa
Sour cream or plain Greek yogurt

In a medium skillet, heat 1 Tbsp. oil over medium heat; cook onion, garlic and zucchini until softened and slightly browned. Transfer to a bowl and set aside. To the same skillet heat 2 Tbsp. oil and cook the sausage meat; keep the meat in about 1-inch chunks, don’t break it up too small as it cooks. Drain off any excess fat and add the fully cooked sausage meat to the bowl. Stir in the sun-dried tomatoes and olives. Cool mixture completely. Place about ½ cup of the sausage mixture into each tortilla and sprinkle each with about 3 Tbsp. of cheese. Roll up tightly and place them seam side down, in a greased 13x9-inch baking dish.
In a bowl; beat eggs, add the milk, and then blend in flour, Worcestershire and Tabasco. Pour over the tortillas, cover and refrigerate overnight or for up to 12 hours. Remove from the fridge 30 minutes before baking.
Serve warm with salsa and sour cream
Using a spoon, baste the tortillas with some of the egg mixture in the pan. Bake in a 350˚F oven for 35-45 minutes or until egg mixture is set and a knife inserted in the center comes out clean. Sprinkle with remaining cheese; let stand 5 minutes. Garnish with snipped fresh chives, serve warm with salsa and sour cream.
 
 
Till next time... Happy Easter and Bon Appétit!


Photos and recipe by Sally Rae

Sunday, March 13, 2016

'Heart Smart' ~ Chicken En Papillote

February is heart and stroke awareness month in Canada. So why am I writing about 'Heart Smart' in March? Ironically, the morning after Valentine's Day, my partner had a major heart attack. It is taking time, but as we both recuperate from the trauma, I have changed some of my cooking methods to accommodate a reduced salt and reduced fat diet.

I have never been a fan of chicken breast meat, even less if it is boneless and skinless! There is so little fat in a boneless, skinless chicken breast that it is hard to cook it without the meat ending up dry or just tasteless. Wrapping it in bacon was a good option until now. How was I going to prepare my most dreaded protein without the use of fat?

Seasoned with dried thyme, paprika and Garlic Mrs Dash
En papillote is French for 'in parchment' and is a method of cooking where the food is put into a folded pouch or parcel and baked. This is typically done using parchment paper but other wraps can be used. In the case of boneless, skinless chicken breast, the parchment acts as the missing skin to protect and prevent the meat from drying out. The chicken bastes in its own juices and the result is tender, juicy, succulent chicken breasts. It is easy, versatile, dependable and I too enjoyed the meal! Season the chicken with just salt and pepper or any spices you wish. Soon you will be cooking extra for leftovers to use in lunches. If you have struggled with dry, tasteless chicken breasts in the past, this method is worth a try!

CHICKEN BREAST EN PAPILLOTE 
This recipe is salt free and very low fat.

1 or more boneless, skinless chicken breasts
Ready for the oven
Dried thyme leaves, rubbed in your palm
Mrs. Dash Seasonings, salt free 
Paprika  
Freshly ground black pepper
Other spices or seasonings 
Parchment paper 
Water

Preheat oven to 400F with a rack in the middle position.
Cut pieces of parchment paper, 10-inches wide, one for each chicken breast. See top photo; place each chicken breast on the parchment at a slight angle, season as desired. Fold the bottom corner over the chicken breast and fold the sides in to create a pouch. Put a few teaspoons of water into each pouch and continue rolling to close. 
Salt free and fat free... yet tender, juicy and succulent
Place parchment wrapped chicken breasts in a pan, spaced slightly apart, seam side down and add 1/8-inch water to the pan. It is OK if some of the water added to the pouch escapes into the pan.

Bake in preheated oven until completely opaque all the way through and registers 165F on an instant read thermometer. Start checking after 20 minutes, total cooking time is usually 30-40 minutes depending on the size of the chicken breast. 
Remove chicken breast from the parchment paper pouch, save the juices for a delicious salt free gravy or add to sauces or soups. Serve the chicken immediately, or let it cool and refrigerate for up to 4 days.

CHEF'S NOTE: For extra flavor try adding; fresh lemon slices, sliced onion, a garlic clove or fresh sprigs of herbs in the packages. 

Till next time... Bon Appétit!



Photos and recipe by Sally Rae